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When a man is tired of London

When a man is tired of London

“when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford” Samuel Johnson 1777

What on earth would Johnson make of London now?

I used to work and live in London.  My three children were born there. Then, because of Alan’s work, we moved to America. In the states we lived in Darien, a rather fabulous commuter town an hour from New York City. Since coming to Copenhagen a year ago (also Alan’s work) I have loved how easy it is to hop on a flight; I can be back in the UK in a matter of hours.  When I return to London it is normally to visit my gorgeous friends in Wimbledon or my lovely sister who lives in Orpington.

However, this time, I came as a tourist.

My dear friend Felicia (the one from the Cape), called to tell me she was unexpectedly coming to London. I had already planned my trip to see her at the Cape. Now, only days later, I would have the chance to hang out with her in London.  I had always promised that if she was ever visiting my old home town I would join her and show her around. On my return from America, I repacked my bags and flew to London. It’s a hard life!

I love London.

Sadly New York has never done it for me. (I know, I know!) Over the years Felicia has had to listen to me disparage one of her favourite cities on a regular basis.  I was excited to be meeting my good mate in Great Britain. Finally I was going to have a chance to show her why the skyscrapers and buzz of a relatively new NYC would never match the history, majesty and beauty of my 2,000 year old capital city.

Like New York, London is a world cultural capital. It too leads the way in arts, commerce, education, entertainment, fashion, finance, healthcare and media. With almost  9 million people living in the greater London area, speaking 300 languages, the city has a diverse range of people and cultures.

However London and the Thames are inseparable in a way that NYC and the Hudson are not. So much of London centres around the water and the many gorgeous bridges that crisscross the Thames. There has been a London Bridge since 50 AD when the Romans founded Londinium, although the most recent incarnation dates only from 1973. Tower Bridge is probably the most fabulous. The newest is the Millennium Bridge, which was officially opened by the Queen and is also known as the wobbly bridge.  It stared in ‘Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince’ and can be seen being destroyed by death eaters. Don’t worry, it is still there!

London Bridges

Travel in London

Before all the bridges were built, the most common way to travel in London was by boat. Felicia and I decided that our first adventure would be to catch the water bus at Westminster and take it as far as the Tower of London. The water bus is part of the excellent London Transport system and you can pay for it with your Oyster Card.  Love my Oyster card. It is a credit card sized card that you can load with money then use to travel around all 6 London Zones and beyond. The total you pay for any one day of travel within the six zones is capped; the most I paid was £6 for a day of unlimited travel. You can preorder a card or just pick one up when you arrive at the airport. The water bus cost an additional £6.50 but was much cheaper than the tourist boats offering the same journey.

Sausage Roll and Oyster Card

Tower of London

As the boat nears the Tower of London you see the words ‘Traitor’s Gate’ written on the walls. The Tower has a long and bloody history and it rarely ended well if you were brought to the tower through that gate. Anne Boleyn, Thomas Moore, Guy Fawkes and Sir Walter Raleigh are probably among the Bloody Tower’s most famous guests, but many were taken to be tortured and beheaded during the centuries.

City of London

In all my years in London I had never visited the Tower of London. I had no idea that it was only about ten minutes from where I used to work in the City. You can see how close it is, as the Gerkin, one of the latest whacky buildings to appear in the city skyline , looms in the background . The City is the oldest part of London but has seen a lot of changes since I left the UK. It now has a Gerkin, a Cheese Grater, a Walkie Talkie and the Shard.

Walkie Talkie, Gherkin, The Cheese Grater The Shard ( rather lovely photo from https://www.6sqft.com)

 

Tate Modern and the Globe

Day two we arranged to meet at the Tate Modern.  It was chucking it down as I walked from the tube station and I will confess I had a slight sense of humour failure until I dried out. On the plus side I did get this amazing, no filter, photo of the Wobbly Bridge with St Paul’s in the background.

Wobbly Bridge with St
Wobbly Bridge with St Paul’s in the background

The Tate Modern is massive.  It is slightly austere ,as befits an art gallery in a repurposed power station.  In keeping with London’s no charge policy, entry is free but some of exhibits require you to buy a  ticket. The Tate Modern is known for its often contentious take on ‘Art’, through its annual installation competition The Turner Prize.  Winning entries have included an unmade bed and a pile of bricks and …. Other exhibits are less challenging.

Two minutes away, on the same side of the river, we found the Globe.  It is a full size replica of Shakespeare’s famous open air theatre, which was built after many years of research.  We took one of the tours and had a chance to watch a dress rehearsal for an upcoming play Boudica (its mostly Shakespeare, obviously, but they experiment with other plays ). We were thrilled to recognise Gina McKee from ‘Notting Hill; in the lead role. On the tour we learnt that the theatre was on the opposite side from the city of London as Shakespeare’s plays were regarded as too common and lowbrow to take place in the city itself.

Radio and STK

In the evening we met with some old friends and went for pre dinner drinks at the trendy rooftop bar Radio. It must have one of the best views in town. Sadly I was so busy talking I completely forgot to take any photographs until it was dark.

Afterwards we went for dinner at STK, the American steak restaurant in the same building. There was a fun party atmosphere in the restaurant but as we looked around we realised we were the oldest people in the room. I have been aware in Copenhagen that I am often the oldest. It seems London is no different, and that would be because sadly I am old! Obviously that did not stop me joining in the dancing and at one stage doing tequila shots with my new young friends. Those photographs are not for public consumption.

Hyde Park

The next morning, after fortifying ourselves with some excellent bacon and sausages sandwiches and a cup of tea from Marks and Spencer’s, we set out to explore Hyde Park. At one end of the park we found Kensington Palace, the former home of Princess Diana.  In the Palace there is an exhibition of Diana’s clothes. Tickets can be booked in advance although a limited number are available on the day.

The weekend of our visit marked the twentieth anniversary of Diana’s death.  Flowers once again were being laid at the gates of the palace.  I remember going and laying a bouquet 20 years ago. At that time the flowers covered a vast area of the park. (Whilst I remember I can thoroughly recommend the film ‘The Queen’ with the excellent Helen Mirren, which is about that terribly sad time and the extraordinary public reaction to the death of the People’s Princess.)

There is now a beautiful white garden there which has been created in Diana’s memory.

I dragged Alan and Robert my son all the way to the Diana Memorial Playground where I remember taking Robert when he was little.  Sensibly the park is gated and only allows adults if they have children.  At 23, Robert no longer qualifies. Outside there is a clock tower with the works ‘Time Flies’. As if I need any reminding!

We walked the length of Hyde Park and saw the preparations for the BBC 2’s  Last Night of The Proms. The Concert itself was taking place that evening in the Royal Albert Hall but it is streamed live to large screens in Hyde Park. Early in the morning queues were already forming for the open air concert. As is traditional we saw lots of Union Jacks and people in fancy dress.  We were promised at a party in Wimbledon otherwise I would have loved to experience the party atmosphere off the proms, especially the singing!

Houses of Parliament

Our next stop was the Houses of Parliament.  For this I had booked for us and my American friends. I can thoroughly recommend the guided tour.  Our rather excellent guide walked us though the procedures for the State Opening of Parliamentary by Her Majesty the Queen. She also explained how the Lords and the Commons worked to ensure there were checks on laws and policy making.  We were surrounded by the history of Great Britain.  Although most of the buildings only date back to Queen Victoria’s  reign there were rooms based on the Tudors, famous battles and even Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table.  I felt very proud of being British and delighted my friends could be there.

We also learned about the Division Bell. Every so often when it is hard to ascertain how the members are voting they are asked to divide and make their way to two separate corridors where they can be physically counted.  The signal for this division is the ringing of a bell. It is rung throughout Parliament and members have eight minutes to get themselves to the right spot.  It is also rung in various hostelries around parliament. We  felt obliged to check the last part of the story and retired to have a late lunch in one of the division pubs.

I think Samuel Johnson would be impressed with London. For lack of time we did not visit Buckingham palace, Churchill’s War rooms, Leadenhall Market or any other number of things we had planned for our trip. I cannot imagine ever running out of museums, art galleries and restaurants no matter how long your stay.  At every turn we were delighted by London.  There were so many beautiful little parks, streets and alleys to admire.

Between the Tower of London and the City we stumbled upon Borough Market, the scene of one the last attacks by terrorists, now back to it’s bustling self. Since our visit there has been an attack on the Tube, and my sympathy goes out to all those affected. When I lived in London, the IRA were bombing us. We did not let it affect us then and today the same holds true. After the last attacks a sign, apparently seen at a Tube station, was widely quoted by MPs and the Prime Minister The sign turned out to be fake, but everyone agreed that, regardless, it spoke for the whole country.

“All terrorists are politely reminded that THIS IS LONDON. And whatever you do to us, we will drink tea and jolly well carry on. Thank you.’’

keep calm and carry on

 

Untold Morsels

Two Traveling Texans

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34 thoughts on “When a man is tired of London”

  • Funny how every connects differently with cities and countries .Despite living in London a third of my adult life I much prefer crazy brash NY but yes London has lots and lots to offer as one of the greatest cities in the world. You definitely hit the hot spots! Thanks for joining #FarawayFiles

    • I have lived near both capitals for 15 years. London still fills me with a sense of wonder each time I visit. Once I travelled by taxi on an early Saturday morning just after it had rained. I felt like the ‘Who will buy?’scene was about about to happen all around me, it was truly magical. I have never felt that way about NYC, walking the Highline is about as close as it has ever got.

  • What a fantastic post! Witty and informative . One cannot help but start planning the next visit to London , after reading it. Thank you

  • Great photos! I love being a tourist in London. I’m slowly working my way through all the museums with my children, that alone will take a lifetime as there’s so many of them. #farawayfiles

    • Loved taking the children to the museums. Think my favorite might have been the transport museum, although the Science Museum was always fun too!

  • Sucha a fabulous post. I have lived in London for over 22 years and I adore it., I have never lost the excitement I had in the first weeks I moved here I have been to NY and many other great cities but none that have ever seriously tempted me away. There are endless sights and sounds and I discover new things all the time. Your enjoyment of London comes across so well. I’m glad you had such a wonderful weekend and were able to pack so much in, and capture the memories with so many great pictures..

    • Since we left 16 years you can visit Buckingham Palace. We had planned to go but were pleasantly sidetracked by other plans. The Tate Modern has been around for years but the Globe is fairly new. Its the history that for me is so fabulous. I was boring my friend with the Henry 8th story and all the religious turmoil is engendered. Every Brit can tell you the wives, the order and their eventual demise ….divorced. beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, lived!

  • What a fun post… I can feel the enjoyment you felt oozing through your words. London is one of my favourite cities to go shopping in. The woollen and tweed clothing options are so much more diverse than I can find in Australia. Every trip we head to Cordings on Piccadilly Street and get our fill of warm clothes.

    • I forgot to mention shopping! I didn’t even hit M & S to restock on knickers (because there is only one place that you buy underwear). The UK shopping scene is fantastic. I find for my age group there are so many new choices, Mint Velvet, Sandwich, Phase Eight and my new fav Coast!

  • I’m afraid I have a bit of a difficult relationship with London, despite having lived there for ten years. But I did enjoy your enthusiasm, and you have reminded me that the place has it’s good points! Almost I am homesick. Almost…

    • Just read you post about the new park in Moscow. Fantastic!! I am not good with moving around. I am finding Copenhagen challenging so completely understand if London was not for you. Hard to be in the happiest place in the world and not absolutely loving it!
      I can’t decide where I am most homesick for, London, Scotland, Connecticut or California. I have not even ever lived in California!
      If I ever go back to London want to do it as an expat and live in one the posh areas nears Knightbridge, that sort of thing!!!

  • Fabulous post, and your photos are just great! I especially love the skyscrapers! I’ve been to London multiple times, and I always visit the Tower of London, and this upcoming visit will be no different! I just love the idea of walking around in a 1000 year old building that is still in use today! I’m definitely going to check out the Radio Bar on our next visit! #farawayfiles

    • Might check whether you can book Radio, or get there early. The views are spectacular. Have to confess skyscraper photos are not mine. My phone kept losing charge so accessed those from the internet. Attribute is there!

  • I’ve only been to London once – and I took my three (at the time) teenagers with me. We spent 3 days visiting Churchill’s War Rooms, the London Eye and Westminster Abbey (which was my favorite) . I really enjoyed it but I’m not sure I’d list it as one of my favorite cities. It may be time to go back and give it a try without teenagers along!

    • I think it is a history thing, I just like really old. Also. as Brits we recognize so much that is significant in our past. Growing up on films like Oliver, Mary Poppins or Pygmalion, you love London before you ever see it for real. Disclaimer, I am a Scot so I have the good fortune to have two rather fabulous Capital cities, London and Edinburgh so feel I am completely spoiled for choice.

  • Even thought London is incredibly high on my bucket list, I really haven’t put much thought to exactly where I wanted to go in London. Thanks for some great suggestions on places I could visit and things I could do when I do finally make it to London.

    As for New York City, I agree with you. I enjoyed my trip there, but it is far from being one of my favorite cities. The flashing lights and sounds just don’t do it for me. The historic beauty of London is much more appealing to me.

  • Don’t hate me, but I’d take Paris over London any day! But to be fair – I’ve never really had a proper exploration of the city. It’s always a day or two on the end of a trip and last time I was on crutches! Maybe I need to play the true tourist and see all these things to make a fair comparison. Heading to NYC in October – so I’ll download on that one later! Cheers and thanks for sharing with #FarawayFiles, Erin

  • Just a fabulous post, full of charm and wits. I loved it is interspersed with anecdotes and the post is from heart. I love living in London and your quote is so apt. Thank you so much for such a wonderful post. #theweeklypostcard

  • Although I’ve never been to NYC, I would say London is SOOO much better! I’ve only been to London three times, and am still not able to cover many of the places that you have mentioned in the post. If only the exchange rates of GBP vs Malaysian Ringgit weren’t too expensive, I would love to stay in London for, like, a month or longer to explore the city and its surrounding areas. Fantastic post, love it! #TheWeeklyPostcard

    • A month in London would be great! So much to do. When we lived in Wimbledon and worked in London we rarely went back in at the weekends. We preferred to travel in the opposite direction, visiting the fabulous parks and stately homes.

  • I love London too (not as much as NY though). I am surprised this was your first time to visit the Tower. I hope you saw the Crown Jewels? Glad you went to the Tate Modern too, I love that museum. Love the view from the 10th floor. Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard.

    • Oh, still haven’t been in the Tower yet, we did not have time. Have seen the Scottish and Danish Crown Jewels though!

  • There is so much happening in London, you can’t get bored. One time I visited with a librariran friend and we spent most of our time there browsing trough used books.:)

  • We were recently in London and while I did not tire of London itself, I did tire of the crowds, and endless lines and the constant need to take selfies. This time we did most of the touristy spots which my husband hadn’t seen all of before, next time though, we’re headed to more off-beat spots! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!

I would love to hear from you!

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